John Hornick — Chef’s Apprentice
The main destination of our trip was Granada, Spain, home of the super-impressive Alhambra, but we side-tripped to Malaga and The Rock of Gibraltar, which turned out to be equally impressive. If you’re heading to the Costa Del Sol, this is your quick guide to Malaga and The Rock.
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Getting There
We flew into Madrid, spent the night, then took a train to Malaga.
To book your trip to Madrid, or anywhere, and to get good prices, use this Expedia box:
We used United points to fly to Madrid. If you have slightly fewer points than you need, you can buy enough to get you a free trip from United. If you want to stay in Marriott hotels and don’t have enough points, you can also buy more here.
We travel with only one bag and a backpack each. I have been using this Pathfinder bag for many years. It has a large compartment with top or bottom access, and a nylon panel can be unzipped to combine the soft upper compartment and the rigid lower. The whole bag is heavy duty, including the retractable handle and wheels, as proven by the fact that I have been using it for well over five years. It still looks new despite having been in many, many overhead luggage compartments, and Sarah just bought one because mine has served me so well for so long. What I like most about it is the pockets. I love pockets and it has many pockets both inside and out.
Malaga in a Nutshell
Malaga is located on the southern Mediterranean coast of Spain, known as the Costa del Sol (sunny coast). It’s only about 60 miles from The Rock and Strait of Gibraltar.
The city’s history spans over 2,800 years, making it one of the world’s oldest cities. Founded by the Phoenicians around 770 BC as a trading post, it’s been influenced by the Moors and the Romans, and was conquered by the Catholic Monarchs in 1487.
It’s a very walkable city, with many attractions within walking distance of each other and the city center, on marble-paved streets worn smooth by millions of passersby. The streets are lined with shops, cafes, and historical sites, and the waterfront promenade, “Paseo Marítimo,” is great for a beautiful walk along the coast.
Don’t miss these must-sees:
Alcazaba of Malaga: A well-preserved Moorish fortress offering stunning views of the city and the Mediterranean Sea.
Picasso Museum: Celebrating the works of Pablo Picasso, the museum features a substantial collection of his art.
Malaga Cathedral: Known as “La Manquita” (the one-armed lady), this Renaissance cathedral is famous for its prominent bell tower and beautiful interior.
Castillo de Gibralfaro: Another historic fortress, offering panoramic views of Malaga and the coast.
Beaches: Malaga is known for its beautiful beaches, such as La Malagueta and Pedregalejo, popular for sunbathing and water sports.
Mercado de Atarazanas: A vibrant market where visitors can sample local produce, seafood, and tapas.
Where to Stay: AC Hotel Malaga Palacio
Blown away. That’s my reaction to our too-cool-for-school room, which was so newly renovated that we were the first people to use it.
Our welcome gift was a huge Palmeras (popular chocolate-covered heart-shaped puff pastry).
I didn’t experience the shower until the next morning but its rainshower, handheld, AND waterfall settings were so fantastic that I considered skipping the sights and staying in the shower for our 3 days in Malaga.
But my curiosity won out, which was good because the hotel is walking distance to everything. Oh, and I wrote this on our sunny balcony overlooking a beautiful park of palm trees, Norfolk Island pines, and Jacarandas, through which I could see glimpses of docked cruise ships and the turquoise Mediterranean.
The rooftop bar by the pool is a perfect spot for a sunny happy hour cocktail, with views of the sights, which may suffice for sightseeing if you choose to spend your entire visit in the shower.
CLICK HERE TO BOOK THE AC HOTEL MALAGA PALACIO
The Medusa Oyster Shop
Great place to sit on the narrow street, eat oysters and caviar, drink wine or something sparkling, and watch the world go by, which we did for a couple of hours late one afternoon. Not sure why it’s called Medusa. Probably because of the oysters. Glad the hotel was close by.
El Tapeo de Cervantes
On our first night in Malaga we enjoyed a 10:30p dinner with some friends who just flew in from Scotland in a snug corner of this rustic (we agreed it was rustic, not semi-rustic, I guess because of the lack of varnish — see my Madrid reviews to learn what the heck I’m talking about) tapas bar with a corkscrew collection screwed to the wall.
Exercising my restaurant Spanish to guess the specials on the chalkboard, we ordered six tapas, all of which amazingly turned out to be what I thought they were.
They were perfectly coursed and looked as good as they tasted, washed down with a good but inexpensive Rioja (there’s just no reason to spend much on wine in Spain; it’s all good).
Closed the place down, which isn’t easy to do in Spain.
CLICK HERE TO BOOK TOURS IN MALAGA
Gibraltar in a Nutshell
Gibraltar has been inhabited since prehistoric times and has been influenced by the Phoenicians, Romans, Moors, and British. In 1704, during the War of the Spanish Succession, the British captured Gibraltar and have held it ever since.
Popularly known as “The Rock,” its location at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea has made it strategically important throughout history, especially during World War II.
The town of Gibraltar is compact and highly walkable, with shops, restaurants, and the marina.
The major attractions can be reached by car or cable car. See below for a summary of The Rock’s must-see sights.
Gibraltar turned out to be one of the best highlights of our trip. There is SO much to see and SO much history.
Where to Stay: The Rock Hotel
The Rock Hotel provides sweeping views of the Mediterranean Sea and the coastline of Spain and Africa. We stayed at The Rock and dined at its classy restaurant, Alfred’s.
We had a wonderful view toward the west of Spain, the Straits, and Africa from our room’s terrace and from our dinner table on Alfred’s terrace.
The hotel was built in 1932 as a luxury hotel to accommodate travelers and dignitaries. Over the decades, it has remained one of the premier hotels in the region, known for its hospitality and stunning views. The hotel has undergone renovations to modernize its amenities while preserving its historical charm.
At dinner, jackets are not required but I wore one because Sarah looked great (there is no dress code), but sunglasses even at 8:30pm in May are a must.
Dinner was very good and the wine was GSI (good, Spanish, and inexpensive, not to be confused with GSM). At dinner, there was a minor glitch but our tuxedoed server spent the rest of the evening making up for it, which was great but unnecessary.
Having dessert and a drink in the bar, I felt like Churchill without the cigar (though I wanted one, and yes, he stayed here).
Lots of history at the hotel, which has hosted many famous guests over the years, including politicians, celebrities, and royalty. Check out the Wall of Fame, the photos of The Rock’s military history, and the incredible botanical garden across the street, which is like Paradise.
CLICK HERE TO BOOK THE ROCK HOTEL
Tour The Rock
We took a great private tour of The Rock. Our guide and driver looked and sounded like Inigo Montoya. He was a Rock native who knew everything about everything there was to see. I kept expecting him to say “you keel my father, prepare to die.”
CLICK HERE TO BOOK TOURS OF THE ROCK.
Don’t miss these must-sees:
Moorish Castle: An ancient castle that dates back to the 8th century, showcasing the rich Moorish influence in the region. Explore the ruins and learn about Gibraltar’s history during the period of Muslim rule.
St. Michael’s Cave: An amazing natural limestone cave system located within The Rock. It features stunning stalactite and stalagmite formations and has a great laser light show.
Skywalk Path: This exciting glass-bottomed walkway extends from the Rock, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding sea and landscape.
The Great Siege Tunnels: These tunnels were used by the British to defend The Rock during the Great Siege of Gibraltar.
The Apes’ Den: Home to the famous Barbary macaques, the only wild moneys in Europe (they are not actually apes). Observe them in their natural habitat.
World War II Tunnels: An incredible network of tunnels carved into The Rock during World War II, it was built to hold 16,000 soldiers for a 16-month siege, which never happened.
Conclusion
If you have the time, don’t miss Malaga and The Rock, especially the latter. When I think back about this trip, I remember The Rock best.
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